Tuesday 19 May 2015,
It rained on and off during the night and during the day. The
weather here is certainly variable!
We were low on diesel and so I mistakenly stopped at a BP
service station where the price of diesel was 132.9 pence per
litre. ₤61.00 later the Merc was full. (45.90 litres @ ₤1.329
per litre = ₤61.00) This has to be the most expensive diesel in
Britain!
We left the Lake District and headed towards Northumberland and
Hadrian's Wall. Our first stop was the Housteads Roman Fort and
Museum at Vindolanda. It was hard to tell what was original and
what had been reconstructed. So we headed off to the English
Heritage managed site at Birdoswald in Cumbria. There is the
ruins of a Roman Fort here as well as being able to wander for
miles alongside Hadrian's Wall. It was something of a challenge
to take an interesting photo of a stone wall!
I had always assumed that Hadrian's Wall marked the border
between England and Scotland, but it seems as though is slices
its way through Northumberland and is no where near the border

Remains of the Roman Fort at Vindolanda, Northumberland |

Reconstructed tower on Hadrian's Wall at Vindolanda,
Northumberland |

Hadrian's Wall at Birdoswald, Cumbria, with dark thunder
clouds |

Hadrian's Wall at Birdoswald, Cumbria |

Briar beside Hadrian's Wall at Birdoswald, Cumbria |

Hadrian's Wall at Birdoswald, Cumbria |
It was raining when we arrived and rapidly changed into
brilliant sunshine, although we could hear thunder not far away.
We sat in the sun in the courtyard of the English Heritage
office/museum complex and ate our lunch. As we drove to our
night's accommodation in Blanchland, Northumberland we passed
through driving rain and the temperature outside the car
suddenly to 3˚C. Sleet splattered on the windscreen. A few miles
later the temperature was back up to 7˚C and we were in sunshine
again.
We arrived at the Lord Crewe Arms at about 4:00pm. The heating
in our allocated room was faulty and it was way too hot. The new
control valves on the oil heaters were faulty and they couldn't
be turned off. Consequently the room was like walking into a
sauna bath. We were moved to another larger room; a cottage and
settled in.

Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland, Northumberland |

The front bar, Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland,
Northumberland |

The back of the
Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland, Northumberland |

From the back of the
Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland, Northumberland |
We joined four other people from a farm just outside of
Bristol for dinner. It was a pleasant evening.
Wednesday 20 May 2015,
We had perfect weather today with a few clouds about and the
temperature reaching about 16˚C. We left Blanchland,
Northumberland at about 8:15am and headed north into Scotland
and Loch Lomond. We had to put some more air in the back tyre of
the Merc.
The first thing we noticed was the number of unsightly wind
farms littering the countryside. I thought Australia had a lot
of these but southern Scotland seems to have more than its fair
share.
We deviated on the way and went to Stirling for a short time. We
saw the castle but didn't go in.

Street in Stirling, Scotland |

Street in Stirling, Scotland |

Stirling Castle, Scotland |

Street in Stirling, Scotland |
We arrived at the Oak Tree Inn, Balmaha, Loch Lomond just after
3:00pm and checked in.

Southern end of Loch Lomond |

Loch Lomond at Balmaha, Scotland |

Fisherman on Loch Lomond at Balmaha, Scotland |

Loch Lomond at Balmaha, Scotland |

Loch Lomond at Balmaha, Scotland |

Fisherman on Loch Lomond at Balmaha, Scotland |

The cottage where we finally spent the night (upstairs
only) |

A lovely old barn alongside out cottage, Balmaha,
Scotland |
We have a nice room although it is a little on the small side
and the internet connection is a little suspect or non existant.
The room gets very warm from the sun shining through the south
facing skylight and although we can open the window for
ventilation, the window is next to the flu from an extractor fan
from the kitchen or compressor near the kitchen, which is
immediately below us, and is quite noisy and fills the room with
cooking odours. The staff assure us it will quieten down at
about 9:30pm. This is probably the worst hotel we have stayed in
during our trip so far.
We wandered around the lake for about an hour, chatted with a
couple from Lancashire, and took quite a few photos.
The noise from the kitchen fans finally got to us and we asked
to be moved. We were moved to a cottage and had to carry our
luggage about 100 metres up the road. We had the upstairs room
of a three bedroom cottage. It is quiet, but hot, and the
windows only partially open. There is an internet connection but
it has been hijacked by BT Hub even though I logged onto the
hotel server. It is still very ordinary service and
accommodation. Thursday 21 May 2015,
We finally cooled our room down by opening two of the three
windows wide open (the third wouldn't open) and had a peaceful
nights sleep. The internet in our room seemed to have fixed the
previous night's problem and I could check our emails. We were on the road again at about 8:15am. We
headed south from Balmaha to the bottom end of Loch Lomond and
then north up the western shore of the lake. The weather closed
in and we drove through constant rain. We climbed through some
quite strange terrain, with patches of snow on the distant
mountains. It was a very bleak environment. Then we slid down
into Glencoe.

Between Balmaha and Glencoe, Scotland |

Between Balmaha and Glencoe, Scotland |

Between Balmaha and Glencoe, Scotland, just before
Glencoe |

Between Balmaha and Glencoe, Scotland, just before
Glencoe |

Glencoe, Scotland |

Glencoe, Scotland |

Glencoe, Scotland |

Glencoe, Scotland |
The peaks were all in fog and some of the valley was
almost in half sunlight.
The Massacre
of Glencoe
On 27 August 1691
King William offered the Highland clans a pardon for
their part in the Jacobite rising - if they agreed
to pledge allegiance to him before New Year’s
Day. The oath had to be made before a magistrate.
Many Highland Chiefs waited for word to come from
the exiled King James before they took the oath.
Alasdair MacIain, the Chief of Glencoe, arrived
at Fort Willliam on 31 December 1691 to take the
oath but was told that he would have to travel some
70 miles to the sheriff at Inveraray. MacIain
finally took the oath on 6 January 1692. He was
given assurances that his allegiance would be
accepted and that he and his people - the McDonalds
of Glencoe - were safe.
John Dalrymple, Master of Stair, was the
Secretary of State. He was hoping for an excuse to
make an example of one of the Highland Clans. When
he heard that Alasdair MacIain had not sworn
allegiance by 31 December he was delighted:
"My Lord Argyle tells me that Glencoe has not taken the
oath, at which I rejoice. It is a great work of
charity to be exact in the rooting out of that
damnable sect, the worst in all the Highlands."
On 2 February
about 120 troops arrived at Glencoe under the
command of Captain Robert Campbell of Glenlyon. They
were given hospitality by the MacDonalds of Glencoe
as was customary in the Highlands. For the next 10
days and nights the troops were given food, drink
and lodgings.
On 12 February Glenlyon received written orders
from his superior, Major Duncanson:
"You are hereby ordered to fall upon the rebels, the
McDonalds of Glencoe, and put all to the sword under
seventy. You are to have a special care that the old
Fox and his sons do upon no account escape your
hands, you are to secure all the avenues that no man
escape."
At 5 am on the
morning of 13 February 1692 the killing began.
Alasdair MacIain of Glencoe was shot dead as he rose
from his bed, his wife was dragged away from her
fallen husband and stripped naked. She died the next
day. Houses were set alight. The troops bound some
captives hand and foot before killing them. Gunfire
woke the people of Glencoe. They ran from their
homes and fled into the mountains.
Thirty eight men, women and children were killed
in the massacre. Many more died of exposure as they
tried to escape across the mountains in the dead of
winter.
The MacDonalds had been victims of ‘murder
under trust’, considered even worse than normal acts
of murder under Scots law. The Massacre of Glencoe
was also an act of terror by the state against its
own people. The MacDonalds were killed to scare the
other Highland Clans into submission. John Dalrymple,
Master of Stair, had planned the murders. The orders
to kill the MacDonalds of Glencoe had been signed by
King William.
As word of the massacre spread, the
Government tried to cover up what had happened.
Eventually, in 1695, King William had to launch an
enquiry. The Master of Stair resigned his offices
and was given a Government pension. Robert Campbell
of Glenlyon died in poverty a year later. No-one was
ever brought to trial.
:- Education Scotland |
We took plenty of photos and moved onto Fort William. Ben
Nevis (4,406 m) is just behind Fort William but was covered with
fog and we could only see a little bit of snow on the lower
levels. We stopped in Fort William and visited the mineral
museum. We then continued on through Glenfinnan on the shores of
Lock Shiel and up to the fishing port of Mallaig.

Between Glenfinnan and Mallaig, Scotland |

Between Glenfinnan and Mallaig, Scotland |

Between Glenfinnan and Mallaig, Scotland |

Fishing boat, Mallaig, Scotland |

Fishing boat, Mallaig, Scotland |

Between Glenfinnan and Mallaig, Scotland |
By the time we got to Mallaig the rain was constant. We
stopped from time to time and I got out into the rain to take
photos. I took a few photos around the harbour and then we
headed back to our night's accommodation at the Princes's House
Hotel in Glenfinnan. The room is large, quiet and very
comfortable with easy internet connection. It rained all
afternoon and night.
We had salmon for dinner at the bar. It was beautiful. After
dinner we drove to the viaduct made famous in the Harry Potter
films. This entailed parking the car and undertaking a 500 metre
walk in the rain to get close enough to take decent photos.

The railway viaduct at Glenfinnan, Scotland |

The railway viaduct at Glenfinnan, Scotland |
The Glenfinnan Viaduct was complete enough by October 1898 to
be used to transport materials across the valley. It was built
at a cost of £18,904. The viaduct is built from mass concrete
(contains no steel reinforcement), and has 21 semicircular spans
of 50 feet (15 m). It is the longest concrete railway bridge in
Scotland at 416 yards (380 m), and crosses the River Finnan at a
height of 100 feet (30 m). The viaduct has featured in Monarch
of the Glen and three of the Harry Potter films.3]
Friday 22 May 2015,
We left Glenfinnan just before 9:00am. It was an easy four hour
run into Edinburgh. We put ₤25.00 of diesel in the car at Fort
William and topped it up in Edinburgh with another ₤38.00 worth.

Princes's House Hotel, Glenfinnan, Scotland |

Scenery between Fort William and Edinburgh, Scotland |

Scenery between Fort William and Edinburgh, Scotland |

Scenery between Fort William and Edinburgh, Scotland |

Burleigh Castle, Scotland |

Our room is the upstairs bay window, Edinburgh, Scotland |
We found our accommodation, Ardmor House in Pilrig Road
easily enough. We have a huge upstairs room with a large bay
window overlooking the street. We were welcomed by Robin who
told us everything we needed to know our room and how to get
about Edinburgh. He gave us a map and clearly explained where he
thought the hire car should be returned. We trusted the
GPS instead and ended up in thoroughly the wrong place. A very
patient British Rail employee explained how to get to the hire
return office. Obviously we weren't the first to be given the
wrong instructions. In hindsight, Robin's instructions were stop
on and way shorter than the route we took.
We walked up Princes Street from the Europcar drop off point at
Waverley Railway Station and looked at Edinburgh Castle across
the valley. Edinburgh has people wandering about everywhere. It
is very busy and has quite a number of beggars sitting on the
footpaths plying their trade.
We bought sandwiches from Tescos and returned to our room on
foot by about 5:00pm.
Saturday 23 May 2015,
We woke to a sunny cloud free day.
There were parking restrictions out the front of our B&B this
morning for a parade. The parade was in honour of all those
killed in a train accident.
"Early in the morning of 22 May 1915 a troop train left
Larbert, near Falkirk, carrying 498 members of the 7th. (Leith)
Battalion The Royal Scots en route to Liverpool to embark for
Gallipoli. Just before 7am the train crashed into a local train,
parked on the wrong line, at Quintinshill, just north of Gretna.
A minute later a Glascow-bound express ploughed into the
wreckage. As a result of the crash, and the ensuing fire, 216
men died and a further 220 were injured. Most of those killed
were buried in a communal grave in Rosebank cemetery, Pilrig
Road."
During the day, we watched two parking inspectors in action,
one here and one on the Royal Mile Walk. Each must have written
the ticket and then taken 8-10 photos of the scene, just like a
crime scene. About four photos of the car from different angles,
including the number plate (front and back), the traffic warning
sign, and the ticket attached to the windscreen wiper. A lot of
these parking offences must end up in court, and the inspectors
have become very diligent in their jobs.
We did the twenty minute walk from our B&B into the heart of the
city. We walked down Princes Street and took photos again of
Edinburgh Castle and the Scott Monument in memory of Sir Walter
Scott (1771-1832). We then walked up to the castle. I didn't
realise that the Edinburgh Military Tattoo was actually
performed in the car park out the front of the castle. It has
quite a slope on it, which doesn't show on the TV performance.
I had recorded an MP3 of Rick Steve's "Edinburgh Royal Mile
walk." So we listened to that while we ambled down High
Street and Canongate.

Edinburgh Castle, Edinburgh |

Edinburgh Castle, Edinburgh |

The Royal Mile Walk, Edinburgh |

The Royal Mile Walk, Edinburgh |

The Royal Mile Walk, Edinburgh |

Palace of Holyroodhouse, Edinburgh |
We checked out St Giles Cathedral, Old Parliament House, John
Knox House, the Writers' Museum (although we didn't go in),
Canongate Church and finally the Palace of Holyrood House, plus
numerous shops selling jewellery, tartans and whisky. There were
a number of venues advertising live music each night.

Scott Monument, Edinburgh |

Scott Monument, Edinburgh |

The Royal Mile Walk, Edinburgh |

The Royal Mile Walk, Edinburgh |

A local busker, Edinburgh |

A local catching the sun outside a pub, Edinburgh |
We walked back to our B&B, arriving at about 2:30pm. We had
walked for nearly five hours.

Versatile Cast Iron Phone box, Edinburgh |

A group of people having a barbeque on the Common across
from our B&B |
Sunday 24 May 2015,
Another warm and sunny day in Edinburgh. Breakfast was at 8:30am
and the taxi came at 9:45am to take us to Waverley Railway
station. We arrived at the station at 9:58am for our 10:30am
train to London. Upon reading the Departures board we saw that
the train to London was leaving on time at 10:00am!! We rushed
to platform 2 and were about to board the waiting train, only to
be told that this wasn't our train. Ours was the 10:30am train
to London leaving from Platform 8, over the other side of the
station. So much for my small town mentality. I never expected
that they would have trains from Edinburgh to London running
every 30 minutes on a Sunday morning!
Our two booked seats were in a group of four seats around a
table. From Edinburgh to Newcastle the other two seats were
occupied by a middle aged couple who were going to Newcastle to
watch the "football" game between Newcastle United and West
Ham.

The train from Edinburgh to London, before it filled up
with other passengers |

The Belgrave Hotel, 86 Belgrave Rd, Pimlico, London |
From
Newcastle to London we shared our space with a first generation
English/West Indian fireman and his friend who had been up to
Newcastle for a bucks night. We had a good chat with them.
We arrived at London's Kings Cross Station on time at 2:50pm and
caught a black cab to our hotel on Belgrave Road. The old cab
driver had a cockney accent and drove his brightly painted
London cab with precision as he cut in between buses and other
cars and generally gave the London traffic a good "hurry up." He
had to do a few detours because of road closures "Gotta go over
Westminster and then back across Lambeth." he said. Eventually
(₤30.00 later, fare and tip) we got to our hotel and checked in.
The room is small but comfortable. It has no views except for a
few walls and nearby rooftops. One nice feature is that as well
as WiFi there is a cable to actually plug the laptop into the
modem. I like that kind of solidarity!
We had dinner at the Victoria Street Station. They have a
massive food hall and we opted for the "eat as much pizza and
drink as much soft drink as you can drink" for a grand total of
₤20.00.
Monday 25 May 2015,
We went down to the Victoria Station for a quick breakfast at
about 8:30am and then found "The Original" Hop On Hop Off bus
just around the corner. There were road closures all over inner
London due to road works and the Bupa 10,000 being run this
morning. As a result the prerecorded description of what we were
supposed to be seeing was out of sync or completely wrong.

Tower Bridge, London |

Tower of London |

The White Tower, Tower of London |

The Reconstructed Globe Theatre, London |
We got off the bus and visited The Tower of London. We did
the free guided tour with our allocated Beefeater, Bill. Bill
was a tyrant but had a great sense of humour. There was a 40
minute wait to see the Crown Jewels and so we decided to give
them a miss.

Henry VIII's Armour, Tower of London |

Henry VIII's Armour, Tower of London |

Elizabethan Armour, Tower of London |
After spending a bit of extra time at The Tower we decided to
try and walk to Chancery Lane but got hopelessly lost. The GPS
on my phone doesn't seem to work very well in cities where there
are tall buildings all around.
There is a competition on in London to photograph all 70 Shaun
the Sheep located around London. I have photographed only four
of them.

Shaun Sheep, Tower Bridge, The Shard behind |

Shaun Sheep, Tower of London |

Shaun Sheep, The Globe Theatre, London |

Shaun Sheep, St. Paul's Cathedral, London |

Bill, The Beefeater, Tower of London |

The Albert Pub, London |
We ended up at St Paul's Cathedral and spent about an hour or
so looking around.

St Paul's Cathedral, London |

St Paul's Cathedral, London |
We got back onto the Hop On Hop Off bus and headed back to
Victoria Station which is our home base. We had dinner in a
local pub and returned to our room just before 7:00pm.
Tuesday 26 May 2015,
Our last day in London was warm and sunny. We headed off to Prêt
à Manger for breakfast at Victoria Station. It is a pretty
impressive place, with fresh food and five cashiers ensuring
that everyone is served within seconds.
After breakfast we caught our Hop On Hop Off bus into Piccadilly
Circus. Picadilly Circus was much smaller than it looks in the
movies. Took a few photos of some of the statues etc along the
way.

10 metre high sculpture "Still Water" by Nic Fiddian-Green,
Marble Arch, London |

Statue of Eros, Picadilly Circus, London |

Queen Victoria Memorial, St James Park, London |
I bought a map of the City of London as my phone GPS is still
slow and unreliable. We then joined "The Original Tour" free
walking tour of the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace.
Our guide, Adrian, was very good as he regularly checked with
the Police along the route to find out the latest plans for the
day. He soon gleaned from the Police there would be no Changing
the Guard outside the Palace as they were rehearsing for the
Trooping of the Colour in the nearby Wellington Barracks. He
further found out that they would be finishing at 11:30am and
marching up Petty France and Buckingham Gate Roads. We had front
row places as they marched past.
Grenadier Guards leaving Trooping the Colour Rehearsal |

Grenadier Guards leaving Trooping the Colour Rehearsal |

Scots Guards leaving Trooping the Colour Rehearsal. A few
of the Guardsmen were out of step and the Sergeant
wasn't happy! |

Grenadier Guards leaving Trooping the Colour Rehearsal
|
Grenadier Guards - White plumes on left of bearskin;
evenly-spaced tunic buttons.
Scots Guards - No plumes; tunic buttons in threes
After the Guards had gone we walked down to take some
photos of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.
We then did a thirty minute cruise on the Thames (included in
our Hop On Hop Off tickets) from Westminster Bridge down to
Tower Bridge.

Houses of Parliament, London |

The London Eye, London |

Tower Bridge taken from the Thames, London |

Tower of London taken from the Thames, London |
From the Tower of London we recaught our bus and rode
to Blackfriars Bridge. We alighted and walked up to the Silver
Vaults in Chancery Lane. The vaults are two levels below street
level and each shop is accessed through a 4" thick fireproof
door. There was a huge amount of silverware for sale and the
prices were also huge. A small canteen of silver cutlery was on
sale for ₤8,600. We had lunch in cafe across the road from the
vaults, then walked back to Trafalgar Square.
We thought we would take the Hop On Hop Off bus back to Victoria
Station but an apparent taxi strike in the area had all the
tours re-routed away from Victoria. So we did the 45 minute walk
down The Mall to Victoria, had a snack at Prêt à Manger and
reached our hotel at about 5:30pm.

Shaun Sheep, Admiralty Arch, London |

Shaun Sheep, The Mall, London |

Shaun Sheep, Buckingham Palace, London |
I found another three Shaun Sheep to photograph along our
route.
Wednesday 27 May 2015,
We fly out from London to the Newark Airport via Zurich at
12.20pm today.
The taxi arranged by Great British escapes failed to arrive on
time. We phoned them and were told they would arrive in 15-20
minutes and after they hadn't arrived after half an hour we were
told they would probably be another half hour. They claimed the
delays were due to road closures in our area for the opening of
Parliament.
We decided to hail a cab out in the street and had a delightful
journey to the airport. There were extensive road closures that
continually blocked our route but our driver was unphased and
explained that he would "just go down here and then back track
down another road etc etc."
I think we saw nearly every possible way to get to London's City
Airport from Pimlico.
We hailed him at 9:40am and it took an hour to get to our
destination. It cost 60 pounds and I gave him a "fiver" to buy
himself a beer for doing such a good job.
London City Airport is a strange place. It is uncrowded with
very few people and offering minimal services. The duty free
shops are almost non existent. It only services small planes,
probably up to 100 passengers. So our Avro JP100 fitted in quite
well. There are no air bridges, passengers walk out onto the
tarmac and up the stairs onto the plane. The plane then taxis
the length of the runway, as there are no service exits like at
larger airports, turns in a cul de sac at the end of the runway
and takes off. There appears to be an Olympic sized rowing
course running parallel to the runway, about 100 metres from the
runway.
Our one hour thirty minute flight was uneventful. We have a 2
hour wait in Zurich before flying out to Newark in USA. The
flight from Zurich to Newark was 8½ hours. It was quite tiring.
We arrived at Newark at about 8:15pm local time. It was about
30˚C and raining. By the time we
picked up the car, a red Nissan Sentra, it was 9:15pm, dark and raining. The GPS said it
would take 3¼ hours to get to our hotel in Suffern. I couldn't
believe this was correct and it was a pleasant surprise when we
unexpectedly arrived at the motel in Suffern at 10:15pm.
|