Italy

                                                                                                                                        Greece

                     Europe 2012                        

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Friday 25th. May 2012 - Rome
Some initial thoughts about Rome. It is very noisy, with police cars and ambulances continually rushing past with their sirens blaring. There are crowds of people everywhere, but unlike Athens and the Greek Islands the crowds don't diminish when the cruise ships leave. It just remains busy. The buildings are magnificent and leave one in awe. It is easy to miss some of the significant buildings and squares as the streets are narrow and numerous and give no indication that around the next corner you are about to encounter another architectural wonder!
Our guide on last night's walking tour said, as we looked out over the old Roman Forum site, "Look how modern Rome stands many metres above the old archeological levels of ancient Rome." The Romans have built on top of many of their old churches and buildings, continually renewing the buildings and sites. Modern Rome is 6-7 metres above the level of ancient Rome. Compared with Greece where the old ruins still remain marginally below the surface. Only rarely have buildings been built were old ones used to be. It appears as though the renaissance just bypassed Greece.
Our room at the Hotel Prati is small, maybe 3.5 x 3.5 metres square, with  King sized bed in the middle. There is a small ensuite bathroom off it containing a shower, toilet and bidet. It is air conditioned and finally I have a WiFi connection, after the manager "reset the antenna" for me.
As we were still suffering the effects of yesterday's transfer from Athens to Rome and the walking tour (2 miles) with the walk back from the Colosseum, today was a slow day. After breakfast we hit the streets and retraced some of last night's tour, this time taking photos in the brightness of day. The temperature was about 25
˚C but very humid. We walked to St Peter's Square, took photos of the Basilica, then made our way through Piazza Navona to The Pantheon, then onto Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. We had a quick lunch and then rested up like the natives do with a siesta.
 


Saturday 26th. May 2012 - Rome
Today was an early start, having to join a tour of the Sistene Chapel at 8:00am. Naively, I had thought when I booked the tour and selected one that started early in the day with a maximum group size of no more that 10 people, that the Chapel may have been nearly deserted. I soon realised that there may have been anything up to 200, 10 person groups lining up to go in at 8:00am. The crowd was enormous but most people, including ourselves had headphones which picked up the guide's dialogue as we walked along. I took plenty of photos, but there were no photos to be taken in the Sistine Chapel itself. As the guide took us through room after room of antiquities and paintings we were allowed to take photos. I was amazed at the highly coloured ceilings in all the rooms. The skill of Michelangelo and Raphael etc has to be seen to be believed. It has to be noted that Michelangelo was a known as a sculpture when the Pope commissioned him to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. He was a  very versatile fellow indeed. I managed to sneak one photo of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

Part of our tour was to visit St Peter's Basilica, however  there was a service on and entry was delayed until after 1:00pm. Our guide, Paulo, suggested that we come back at about 4:00pm as that is when the crowds are diminished. We came back to St Peter's Square at 4:15pm only to find a line of people, 2-3 deep stretching three quarters of the way around the square. We decided that we would come back another time. On the way back from the Sistine Chapel tour we joined the line at The Old Bridge Gelateria, which we passed last night and were amazed by the length of the queue which stretched 30-40 metres down the footpath. Our ice creams were huge and only cost 2.50 each. We wandered down to the Piazza del Popolo, then back to Piazza Navona for dinner. There was a bit of rain about, but nothing more than on or two light showers.

We have noticed how the Romans have embraced the Smart car, as there are hundreds around the city, not all in the best of condition though.

The photos above were shot last night and we decided to take some more this evening, which are below

Sunday 27th. May 2012 - Rome
The nearest underground train station to our hotel is Ottavianno, down the Battistini end of line A (The Red Line). It is also the closest underground station to St Peter's Basilica. So when we decided to take the underground to visit the Colosseum, we were confronted with literally tens of thousands of people walking towards us down both footpaths and spilling out into the street as they made their way to St. Peter's Square. Rome is packed with people and this isn't even the height of the holidays season yet!
We bought our train tickets (2 x
1.50) which took us to the Colosseum underground station. We had to change trains onto the blue line at the Termini. We bought two "skip the line" vouchers at a booth not far from the colosseum (2 x €16.00) and battled the crowds to get to the ticket booth to convert the vouchers into proper tickets. It is a very strange system. We, along with thousands of other people, eventually got into the Colosseum. It was pretty impressive, and must have been an unbelievable sight back in the Roman days when it was all clad with marble. We took about an hour to look around before heading off to the Palatine Hill, which was also included in the price of our ticket. It was quite picturesque and there were ruins everywhere. At about 2:00pm we headed back to the underground station and took the train back to Ottavianno. We found a small restaurant just near the station (Adami Restaurant, Via Giulio Cesare, 195, Roma). I was given a huge pizza for €7.00 + 400mL draught beer for €4.00 which is the best value for money we have found so far in Rome. At 3:00pm we headed back to the hotel for a siesta.
 

We walked back into Piazza Navona in the evening and I bought a nice acrylic painting by an old fellow, Claudio Meli for €100. I took a few more night time photos of little side streets on the way back to the hotel.
 

Monday 28th. May 2012 - Rome
Our day began early. We left the hotel just after 6:30am as we were determined to beat the queue lining up to visit St. Peter's Basilica. There was hardly anyone there and we waited only a few seconds to go through the metal detectors. As we entered the Basilica we were impressed by the size of the building. There were transepts going off to the sides everywhere many with small services underway. At any one time there must be up to 20 services taking place at various alters around the Basilica. We took photos of Michelangelo's statue of the Madonna and child as we entered. The other day we had only seen a plaster copy of it in the Vatican Libraries. The whole building is ornately decorated with statues and alters at every turn. It was most impressive. At about 8:00am the first bus loads of tourists (mostly Asian) began to arrive and we left. There were a few spots of rain as we left and walked back to the hotel for breakfast.
Today is the day we check out of our hotel, cross Rome and join the Intrepid tour group for the final leg of our trip. As we left the Hotel Prati to walk to the underground train station it began to rain. By the time we emerged at The Termini it was raining quite heavily. We had parkas and umbrellas but out suitcases and back packs got wet in the steady rain. We eventually found the Bolognese Hotel which is about 400 metres from the Termini but by the time we found it was probably closer to 800 metres. The Bolognese is a two star hotel. One rings the bell at the austere front door and waits for the caretaker to release the latch. There is no lift and so the luggage has to be lugged up to the second floor where we are. On the landing one is confronted with another door, this time requiring a key code. Once through this door there is a small vestibule with 4 rooms leading off it. Once in this area the room key card can be used to access the room. We were in the "Rotonda Room." The room is spacious and comfortable. The ensuite is large and comes complete with shower, toilet and bidet. The huge piece of plaster missing from near the window is a little disconcerting, but this hotel is apparently known as an "art" hotel and this is supposed to add to the ambiance. The Hotel extends another two floors, at least above this level.
We had lunch at a little restaurant around the corner. There is a distinct shortage of places to eat on this side of town. Also not many people here speak English. We now appreciate how convenient the Hotel Prati was to the middle of the restaurant area where most waiters and staff spoke good English.
The rain stopped at about 1:30pm and the temperature dropped suddenly, making it quite cold and requiring warmer clothes. At 6:00pm we met the other 7 members of the group (with possibly another person to join us tomorrow) and went out for a most enjoyable dinner at a local restaurant (antipasto smorgasbord + 500ml red wine
26.00 for 2 people)

Tuesday 29th. May 2012 - (Rome - Florence)
At 9:30am we joined our tour leader, Davide on a walking tour of Rome. He first led us to the Spanish Steps and then down to the Trevi Fountain and to the Pantheon. At this time of day the Pantheon was not too crowded. We saw the austere front of Chiesa del Gesu, but upon entering we were astounded at the beauty of the ceiling and the frescos.
 

We then passed the Old Forum area and down to the Colosseum. Davide left us there and Rhianne joined us as we made our way by the underground back to Ottavianno station. We had lunch at Adami's Restaurant and then walked down to St Peter's Square where Rhianne bought some rosaries and posted her postcards at the Vatican Post office. We then walked down to Castel Sant' Angelo.
 

It was about here that we began to get lost while trying to find Lepanto Station. By the time we finally arrived at the Termini and our hotel the Intrepid group had left although we were only 10 minutes late. We arrived too late to catch our train from the Termini to Florence and had to catch the next one. It cost us 2 x €45:00. But luckily it was an express train going to Venice and left the Termini an hour after our designated train. We phoned Davide who said he would pick us up at the Florence Station at 7:15pm.